many ways, traveling to Varanasi felt like going back to your grandparents. The world is aspiring to reach Mars, but Dadu Dida are happy to write me a letter (handwritten, that was a thing!) from their old habitat, happier than words can fathom, continuing with daily mundaneness while the surprisingly healthy golden house geckos nod in approval.
The Ubiquitous heart of the entire india, Varanasi (also known as Kashi or Benaras) is home to Sri Kashi Viswanath Temple. River Ganga, mother to a substantial population of the world, cordially folds this small landmass in her horse shoe bend. Despite the consecutive change of political power throughout medieval history, the Biswanath Temple (I write it like the Bengalis say it) sustained every gnaw of time and remains a focal point of the Hindu pilgrim circuit of the country. Myriad chapters of history render Varanasi a distinct demeanor at every bend of the street, by the shadow of haveli safeguarding stories of olden days. Traveling to Varanasi feels as if I am to touch the pulse of this old thriving country, India!
In this Varanasi travel blog, I will highlight the reasons why I traveled to Varanasi, how I experienced the old narrow streets of Varanasi, the timeless Ghats by the river, every good and bad aspect of it, and other essential travel tips for a solo female traveler. I made a solo trip to Varanasi. I hope this post inspires you to make that long pending trip to Varanasi.
You will never forget your first time in Varanasi
Why do we follow the ancient pilgrim route to the city of Benaras?
Varanasi is the edifying place to live, an extension of home for every Indian. That old can stay nonchalant against all the murmurs of impending changes, Varanasi is a steadfast living example of that.
I grew up reading detailed illustrations on the streets of Kashi in Rabindranath’s Chokher Bali and many short stories of Prabhat Kumar Mukhopadhyay. Binodini found escape until her lover Behari followed her to the Ghats of Varanasi. The last refuge of every Bengali Hindu widow whom the society had abandoned, Varanasi was the new age Banprastha, when a devout hindu would give up on home and “Songsaar” and recede to the forests.
By virtue of being a pilgrim site, someone or other would take care of the widows. If not, they succumb to the world’s oldest trade in human flesh. The literary references I am talking about are of India as a British colony, not many cared about women’s rights and inheritance. In fact, sending off a widow to Varanasi was often seen as a good riddance, as the path to ascend to the family throne became easier.
I vaguely remember the shooting of the movie Water, a film by Deepa Mehta, which further delved into the issue of Hindu windows’ plight and stirred many controversies, making regular headlines on the morning newspaper. In my mind, Varanasi was this old stubborn head of the clan a city, harping on age old customs doused in misogyny, resisting change. The whole fiasco left a bitter taste in my mouth, making me wonder if I would ever want to visit this old city.
In my late twenties, Varanasi beamed into me with a different charisma. The long stretched Indian railway cuts through the heart of Ganga, biting cold of north Indian winter months (Jarh) settles in, pompous Kumbh Mela celebrates an unforeseen conglomeration of millions of thriving hearts, the sprawling sandbank on the other side of Ganga buries many secrets. The flags on the ghats of Varanasi flutter relentlessly. Varanasi had a mysterious spiritual pull, the lure of experiencing the divine!
I have shied away from all forms of structural divinity throughout my life. They said I questioned too much. But their critique never came with answers I had asked for. Deep down my heart, I longed to conform to the spiritual aura which provides billions of countrymen the much coveted elusive faith. I trusted Varanasi.
While I tiptoe around a possible spiritual beckoning, one thing I was certain of. Meeting the mother river, Ganga. I grew up by her side. In many ways Varanasi was homecoming for me! I have spent a decade living in metro cities devoid of a palpable fluvial flow of an ancient river. My travel quests meet a definitive pause whenever I am allowed a chance to bask by a river, soaking in all her glory!
In Varanasi, I did exactly that. In three days time, I explored the ancient ghats of Varanasi starting from Assi and walking till Scindia, after which an old pool appears from nowhere, thwarting the road ahead. I was mindful to not step on the cow dung for as long as I could, then gave up to save my behind from a menacing bull attack. I was skeptical, elated, content, overwhelmed, scared, overjoyed, on the verge of crying on the streets of Varanasi all at once, even after being an Indian raised and bred for three decades in the overwhelming madness that bring harmony to this ancient nation, and I can imagine what it would be like for the first time travelers.
All these happened just before the last Loksabha election of India, possibly the greatest dance of democracy in the world!
Hello hello varanasi!
Tapping into Pulse of Varanasi: Older than History
By this time, we all know Varanasi’s antiquity had left Mark Twain speechless. Old is pristine when revered and abided by all. In the deep of old, a nostalgic man rediscovers his own self.
For several thousand years, many socio-political developments intersected with the eternal flow of Ganga by Varanasi. One of the premier stops among the Saptapuri (7 cities), senile Hindus traditionally made a pilgrimage to die by the river Ganga. Death by the river Ganga (Ganga Jatra) will put a stop to the cycle of rebirth.
Later, Sarnath first heard the enchanting “Bani” of Buddha, the wise one! Many scholars enriched the history of Varanasi, starting from Kabir and Tulsidas. During Mughal reign, Varanasi acquired the status of an important trade route, making route from the proverbial muslin and silk sarees.
The political upheaval resulted in occasional violent clashes between different diaspora. The neighboring Gyanvapi Mosque to the Biswanath temple stands witness to turbulent times of rampage and rebuilding and making of a political narrative that stirs up controversy every now and then. And you thought only Nuclear bombs are powerful enough to destroy the world? I will write in detail about this later.
To ascend to the throne of Varanasi is equivalent to tapping into the pulse of a sizable population of the subcontinent, for a political party. History proves dynasties fall and rise but all the rulers think alike. It is impossible to travel to Varanasi and yet ignore her politics if you really want to soak in her culture.
My anxiety shoots sky high whenever I sense a mild religious tension in the air in 2020. Varanasi’s fluttering saffron flags, air resonating with hymns for Ganga, mild breeze from the mountain river, and overflowing flow of genteelness of Indian commoners reinstated my faith in peace and sobriety. Even if that is the coping mechanism my mind has adopted, to resort back to chapters of love and humanity.
Did you know? Hiuen Tsiang from China named Varanasi as Polonise in his travel account!
Explore the Ghats of Varanasi
Reserve a whole day to traverse the ancient ghats of Varanasi. I dare say that in that four Km stretch of the land, an entire country resides!
History teaches us every provincial ruler had contributed to rebuilding Varanasi, to mend for every attack that left a bruise to her walls. From the Rajput rulers to the Tamil king and Bengali Zamindars, everyone had left a regional influence on the Ghats of Varanasi, which makes it an absolute delight to explore every nook and corner of it.
I started from Assi Ghat and stopped at Manikarnika Ghat one day. The next day, I started from Dasaswamedh Ghat and stopped at Panchganga Ghat. Among all of these Ghats, Dasaswamedh with constant celebration of life will take your breath away! This is where Apu and his family came and settled after Durga’s death in the book Pather Panchali. This is where Feluda came for a breather after the encounter with Maganlal Meghraj. Excuse me if you do not get the literary reference!
Manikarnika Ghat: the Dance of Death
Manikarnika Ghat with her endless procession of Hindu cremation will evoke an intense emotion. The piles of wood and an eternal firepot await the Hindus once the mortal life succumbs to earthly cycle. Dying and being cremated by the banks of Ganga in the holi city of Benaras ensures your spirit attains “Moksha”. You do not have to return to the world full of sorrow and suffering yet again with a reincarnation.
It was (and still is) a socially accepted practice to conduct “Ganga Jatra” at the senile age.
Assi Ghat
Compared to other ghats of Benaras, Assi is a calm and serene spot, perfect to start the morning. This is where morning aarti in Varanasi takes place while a stunning sun rises at the horizon.
Dasaswamedh Ghat: Myriad life of people
I fall short of words to describe Dasaswamedh. Her spirit and positive vibes are beyond this world. Students of BHU come and sit by the ghat and paint. Men and women of different faith come to take a boat ride, or just spend some time by the river. Devotees galore! Pundits sit under umbrella, prepare Kushti, Kundli, tell you what is in hold for future. Dasaswamedh is also home to the most elaborate Aarti ritual of Benaras. It is incredible to grasp the vibe of Dasaswamedh ghat. You have to live the exquisite experience!
Observe a Ganga Arati Performance
Ganga Aarti is a beautifully constructed performance by the Ghats of Ganga taking place during sundown in Benaras. Every Ghat has its own ritual of Ganga Aarti with Dasaswamedh being the most eloquent and elaborate one. The adjacent Ghats start a little later. In case you miss the one at Dasaswamedh one, you can still catch another Aarti. I watched one at Harishchandra ghat (where animal cremation takes place) at 7:30 pm.
Five or more men dress up in metallic golden attire, usually a Dhuri and a Panjabi, and worship river Ganga with a huge lamp, incense sticks and flowers. Hymns play in the background. I have seen Ganga Arati at Phewa lake, nepal as well. But live hymn and chanting renders Benaras a distinct edge.
In search of the Spirituality in Varanasi
The holy city. The divine city. The city of Shibthakur. Kashi is spelt with pronounced accents of devoutness. More number of Hindu temples reside in the streets of Kashi than you could count. A prominent “Tirthsthan”, Kashi is a household name in India.
I have seen and read and heard so much about Kashi, I thought stepping into the city will make me regain the lost faith. I was rather disappointed when that did not go as planned. Is it overly hyped? Am I missing something? Looking back, I smile.
I felt I was rather fortunate to get a glimpse of the country, India, my home in Benaras. In the month-long solo trip in UP, I had a few bouts of a depressive, lonely period. In Kashi, I never had to fear that inner battle. In the crowd of a million or more, I was beautifully guarded even when alone.
Visit the temples of Varanasi
From countless nameless family run temples to the unique Bharat Mata (Mother India) temple, Varanasi is indeed the divine abode for the faithful.
Sri Kashi Biswanath Temple: Focal Point of Shaivite Philosophy
One of the twelve Jyotirlingams of India, Kashi Biswanath temple (also known as the Golden temple) stands erect since the ages of Purana (Skanda Purana). In thousands of years, there has been many assaults on the temple, the latest being an attack by Qutbuddin Aibak. The temple has been rebuilt and stands adjacent to the Gyan Bhapi Mosque, which was built on the actual site after Aurangzeb demolished the previous temple sanctum.
Millions of footfall await to get a glimpse of “baba”, the Shiblinga. The temple is open to Indians. For foreigners, rules change time to time. To enter Biswanath temple is an experience in itself. You need to stand in queue for long, walk through the famed old lanes eloquent with tales from past. I could not make it till the temple gate on one day but stopped at one of many temples nearby, trying to trace back a Moth run by nuns whom my Dida met during her trip to Benaras!
Durga mandir
One of the major Shati peethas and home to Durga Kund, a triangular pond, Durga mandir was constructed by a Bengali Hindu queen of Natore, now a part of Bangladesh. Natore is also famous for Banalata Sen! The temple is built after Nagar style of architecture.
The bright red temple is approached through a lane that is dotted with stalls selling red hibiscus and vermillion. I had spotted a woman in black Hijab standing in the queue as well.
Tulsi Manas Temple
An ode to the poet who write Tulsidasi Ramayan, one of the grandest epics and historical document of the world, not just India. Set amid landscaped garden, the Tulsidas temple is built of white marble and has scenes of Ramayana depicted through figurines.
Scindia temple
A tilted temple by the banks of ganga with exquisite architecture. You can not miss it as you will be exploring the ghats of Ganga. Mythological document suggest Agni (fire) was born here.
Sankat Mochan Hanuman temple
An integral part of the Hindu epic Ramayan, Sankat Mochan temple is dedicated to Hanuman and believed to be located where the author, Tulsidas had the first epiphany.
Kaal Bhairav temple
Known to be the “Kotowal” of Varansi city, Kaal Bhairab temple houses the fierce form of Shiva, who presides over the city and lets people in and out! I had seen another Kaal Bhairav temple in Kathmandu valley, Nepal.
Nepali temple
Pagoda style architecture and a distinct make of terracotta bricks, this temple is an ode to the iconic Pashupatinath temple of Kathmandu, Nepal. It is also known as mini Khajuraho for intricate wall carving.
Other prominent temples in Varanasi include: Kapileswar temple, Tilbhandeshwar , Mrityunjay temple etc. In the past, more than thousands of temples have been destroyed in Varanasi with consecutive attacks. It is wonderous how the remaining ones have survived in the face of such hostility and dying patronage!
Apart from the prominent temples of Varanasi, there are countless small temples scattered everywhere in the city. Personally, I liked exploring them more. I do not know names for half of them, but could connect to the shared heritage through numerous literary references. From a Hindu shrine worshiping the Sufi saint Juley lal (along with Goddess Durga) to making of a wooden lion, to a potter exclaiming, “Ma khub rege gechilo, taai baba Kashi paliye ashe” (Mother got angry so Father escaped to Kashi, Mother and Father meaning Durga and Shiv respectively), Varanasi lives and breathes the nuances of a celestial land. It is up to us mortals how we change a dip into that sea of faith!
The Sadhus of Varanasi
In India, Sadhus are symbiotic to the indigenous culture of the land. The orange cloth clad group of men (and a few women) leave hedonism in search of deeper meaning of life. A conversation with a Sadhu, if not preempted, can result in surprising life lessons.
I found a sadhu near Assi Ghat, collecting a meagre alm from a woman. In his broken Bengali-Hindi dialect, he was telling her why she should continue with a job, earn money and settle in her life first. Marriage can wait.
You might have known about the mysterious cannibal sadhus of Varanasi, the Aghori sect. First I read about them in Bibhutibhushan’s Pather Panchali. Aghori is still a caste in mainstream Hindu society (a caste marking the already divided Brahmin community). It is said the Aghori sadhu practices Tantric rituals on corpses and thrive on human flesh. Macabre has always indulged human imagination. In Varanasi, the ghats murmur in unison.
Then there are Naga sadhus, the nude saints. I stayed away from them, unable to bridge my apprehensions. Just kidding, I prioritize safety over everything during solo travels, then comes the urge of content creation. I advice you do so too.
A few locals had warned me not to trust sadhus or take everything they say on the face value. Many men, unable to find proper employment, camouflage as sadhu. Devout pilgrims will give them alms and more as a part of the pilgrimage and that in turn would sustain families back home. Many sadhus had been fugitive in past life as well. Alas, my urban mind finds these words trust worthy.
Experience Subah-e-Benaras
Morning starts on a rather melancholic note in Varanasi. A bright sun appears on the horizon, bedazzling the sandbank and the river in golden hues. It is at the wee hours of the day, Varanasi wakes up and engages in daily clatters. the tea stalls start with regular clatters. At Assi Ghat, another set of Ganga Aarti (morning Aarti ceremony) takes place. The boats start to ply, often decked with a classical singer with a tanpura in hand.
Varanasi has been attributed as the “City of Music” by UNESCO. take an early morning walk along the ghats and you know why!
Visit Benaras Hindu University
One of the largest universities of the world, this century old institute started by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, an Indian nationalist and scholar, is truly a center of excellence. The university campus acquires a sprawling 1300 acre land, with landscaped gardens, hostels, hospital, temples and administrative offices.
BHU houses the New Vishwanath temple, with a temple Shikhara towering over the city. Arguably it is the tallest temple tower of the world. Entry is allowed for everyone.
BHU also has a museum, the Bharat Kala Bhavan on premises. At the time of inauguration, it was chairmanned by Rabindranath Thakur.
Experience a Ganga Puja
Every time a Ganga aarti starts, look for a small replica of the ganga idol. Worshipped as a deity, Ganga is believed to have started from the head of Shiva. Ganga Mahotsav is one of the most prominent festivals in Varanasi. It takes place in the winter months, after the great Indian festival season is over!
Explore the Narrow Dingy Lanes of Varanasi
Vishwanath Gali or the narrow lanes approaching Sri Biswanath temple is an intricate maze of winding road leading through neighborhoods testify to the fact that Varanasi is the longest surviving continuously habited city in the world. I had to choose between exploring the winding alleys or the beautiful Ganga Ghats. I dedicated each day for one!
To much of my dismay I found the river promenade was being cleared of these settlements. A new road with a broader corridor is planned for ease of access to the Biswanath temple. If I set aside the nostalgia, it makes sense. But my silly heart longs for the antiquity these lanes render.
Some lanes were so narrow that it did not have enough space for a cow to turn around! Each of the lanes was dotted with beautiful houses, many times houses built at a later period which ate up one of the old temples. Once at stone town Zanzibar, I eavesdropped another man’s conversation that basically was reminiscing the old lanes of Varanasi, a lot similar to those of Zanzibar’s old quarters.
One lifetime is not enough for a storyteller to observe and write all that happens on the old narrow lanes of Varanasi! I would let these pictures do the talking!
Watch a Jalsa
I was in Varanasi by mid March, the end of winter. Winter also means night long classical musical performances by Indian classical raga practitioners. I chanced upon walking into one such jalsa near Assi Ghat, at a sprawling lawn at one of the old bungalows.
Visit a Mosque in Varanasi
Strange it may sound but Varanasi is also home to some of the oldest mosques in the country that testify to the country’s inherent harmonious lifestyle. The GyanVapi mosque being the most intriguing of them all, signing off to a time of political upheaval. The mosque was built where the original Biswanath temple stood. The Alam Gir mosque by the banks of Ganga is another example of destroying heritage. Photography is prohibited in some parts.
The Akhara of Varanasi
One integral part of local life in Varanasi is to visit the Akharas, the wrestling parlors of the city at the start of the day. Muscly men with scant clothing perform Kusti on sand as onlookers cheer in. I watched one and it reminded me of the movie, Dangal starring Amir Khan. Akhara Goswami Tulsidas, Juna Akhara are some of the long-standing wrestling schools in Varanasi.
Manikarnika statue
One of India’s earliest freedom fighters, queen Manikarnika, more famed in India as Jhansir rani, was actually born in Varanasi. I serendipitously stumbled upon her birth place which remembers her with an erect statue. It was close to Assi Ghat.
Art on the streets of Varanasi
The doors of old havelis of Varanasi adorn exquisite paint. The walls have intricate murals with an illustrated janitor with swords in hand or a cow nursing her calf. The staircases of a few ghats have myriad colorful paints too.
Dev Deepavali
Under a full moon night, the ghats of Varanasi decks up with millions of Pradip (oil lamps on earthen pots) to celebrate the homecoming of Ram after he has defeated Ravan of Lanka, as depicted in the Indian epic Ramayana. It usually coincides with Ganga Mahotsav, taking place over 5 days with various activities performed as an ode to the river Ganga. Boat races, art and craft fare and display, decorations and floating diyas on the water are some parts of it!
Every Other Day is a festival in Varanasi. It is the way of life here. Not every festival is as big as a Deepabali or Shivratri but there are millions of people in the city at any given point of time. Many of them are pilgrims. I suggest looking for these small celebrations taking place at the smaller temples and be a part of it (if you want to).
Day trips from Varanasi
For me, it was hard to part away with the streets of Varanasi and the Ghats by Ganga for making the day trips from Varanasi. But I understand the moments your heart longs for solitude. Mine does once the initial amazement cedes down.
Just not Varanasi, there are many other historic places of interest in nearby areas which are great for making quick day trips from Varanasi. History in these parts date back to thousands of years as well.
Sarnath
The UNESCO world heritage site of Sarnath is one of the most important pilgrimage sites of the Buddhist community. This is where Buddha had preached his first sermon. At a distance of 10 KM from Varanasi, Sarnath receives plenty of footfall all the year around. In olden days, Sarnath was known as Isipatana. Shri Digambar jain temple is located close by as well. The Lion Capital of Ashoka, revered as the national emblem of India, is housed at the Sarnath museum.
RamNagar Fort
Built in the eighteenth century, RamNagar fort is a decaying architectural marvel on the eastern bank of Ganga. Intricate artwork and beautiful paisley motifs adorn the walls of this old world gem. It is located at a distance of four km from Assi Ghat. Dust and ill maintenance are prominent everywhere, slowly eating away from the grandeur that the Ramnagar fort once flaunted!
Chunar Fort
If you love forts, drive for approximately 30 km towards east and reach the famed Chunar fort by the banks of river Ganga in Mirzapur. Made of sandstone, Chunar fort has its history dating back to Sher Shah Suri’s reign. Legend says, God resides in the Chunar fort for 9 hours a day and spends the first half (from 6 am to 9 am) at Kashi. If you want to conquer the fort, plan your attack accordingly.
Dudhwa National Park
A tiger reserve at the Himalayan foothill, the diverse ecosystem of Terai grassland of Dudhwa are stunningly beautiful. While your chances of spotting an animal is miniscule compared to Kaziranga or Chitwan national park, visit Dudhwa if you want to experience nature at its best! Though Dudhwa is not exactly a day trip from Benaras. You need to plan a stay there at least for a couple of nights.
Rajdari and Devdari waterfalls
Devadari and Rajdari waterfalls are located at Chandauli (60 km from Varanasi). Rajdari Waterfall is a scenic picnic spot at the foot of a cliff. Devdari Waterfall is set amid cascading white water flow and lush green canopy. This is located close to Chandraprabha Wildlife Sanctuary.
Tenda falls
At 80 km from Varanasi, you come across a gorgeous fall named Tenda. Located at Mirzapur, Tenda falls look pretty in the monsoon.
